Grease Fly
(with apologies to Capt. Dan Blados, creator of the Crease fly)

Squirt out some 'Liquid Fusion' onto a teflon or waxed baking sheet and allow it to dry before peeling off.

It should end up looking like this. Next , move your thread back to the tail, making sure you cover the hook properly. Tie on some large saltwater flashabou at the rear of the hook, followed by some gold mylar ON TOP of the hook shank. Then move your thread back to the eye.

Wind the flashabou forward in overlapping turns, then tie off and trim
Move the gold flashabou over the top of the hook shank, then tie and trim.
On larger hooks two pices can be used.
The gold imitates the insides of the baitfish we are imitating.

Cut the piece of 'liquid fusion' sheet into a crease fly shape, you can make it larger and trim later.
Apply 'liquid fusion' to the hook shank quite liberally, but be careful of messing up the marabou.
Do the same to the inside of the cut sheet, then fold it over the fly and hold with a paper clamp.
Take your time and get it just right.
 

   
Once dried, trim to final shape, stick on eyes, and coat the whole fly with a layer of 'liquid fusion'
Add on some gills with a permanent marker, and you are done. Make sure that wen you are finished you have a 'cup' in the front as shown in the right hand picture.

A variation using holographic foil under the 'liquid fusion'

July 2010

Secure an Owner Mosquito Red #12 hook (any size 10-12 nymph hook will be OK) and wrap on touching turns of 6/0 red thread. Trap in some wide pearl flashabou (or mylar) and thin red red flash, continuing with the thread to around the bend as shown. Move thread back to eye (neatly), whip finish and trim.


Wrap pearl towards the eye in overlapping turns, securing with a half-hitch and then trimming.
Wrap the red flash in open turns and secure with a half-hitch.



Lock these on with the red thread, then secure three CdC feathers as shown after alighning their tips.
Trim the back end of the CdC in a sloping cut, and tie on a peacock herl.
Move the thread to the front of the CdC behind the hook eye.


Wind the peacock herl to make a thorax, then bring it to the fron where the thread is and trap with the thread. Trim the herl, and make a few turns under the CdC while lifting it, so that it cocks' a little.
Secure with a whip finish and trim thread.
Thats it. I recommend fishing it with a 'stopper' knot that will allow it to sit correctly in the water.


This is another version using the same base, but with a wire wrap.


Another alternative is shown below, where the pupa is tied further back on the hook, and thus hangs a bit deeper in the water.




Using a nymph hook, start the thread halway back from the eye, down the bend as shown, trapping in some silver wire. Return the thread and buid up a 'body'. It works a lot easier with a thicker thread, so Use Danville's Flat waxed thread. This can also be 'un-spun' to create a smoother body.


Before you completely finish the body, wind the wire forward as shown, then trap and trim.


Once the body is complete, tie off and trim the thread, and make some cheeks using flourescent craft paint. Dont bother with anything other than a toothpick (of which you should always have.
Put aside to dry by sticking into a piece of foam to avoide messing the paint.
While it dries, make some more, and when they are all dry, give them a coat of head cement or sally hansens (the latter dries quickly)


It should then look like this.


Add the CdC as per the previous fly using the balck thread and tie off.